Mammoth Walk 2012
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The South West Coastal Path
630 miles, 45days. Joined by over 40 friends en route Raised £5835.60 for A Chance to Grow
On 20th June, along with two dear friends, I celebrated the Summer Solstice at Stonehenge. The dawning of 21st June, not only marked the longest day, but for me, it also marked the start of my biggest challenge yet! After celebrating dawn, I headed to Minehead in North West Somerset to start a 630 miles around the coastline of Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset.
The South West Coastal Path is Britain’s longest trail; it’s rugged and beautiful. And over 45 days, come rain or shine, and believe me in 2012, there was more rain than shine (!!!) I abided by my plans, walking all 630 miles, and carrying my entire kit. I’ stayed at campsites, bunkhouses, hostels and bed and breakfasts. I was joined along the way by more than 40 of my closest friends, for portions ranging from 5 ato100 miles each. I walked between 10 and 24 miles each day, celebrating my birthday, enroute and on 3rd August we reached Swanage Bay, Here I was joined by some great friends for the final 7.5 miles to South Haven Point, and a fantastic celebratory camping weekend. What a summer!!!!
Together we raised an amazing sum of money to fund students and small community projects in Africa, and really kick started the charity.
It was a tremendous challenge, and undoubtedly one I’ll never forget . See below for more details:

Real time blog: Diary Entries:
Day 1 (9.5 Miles) – Minehead to Porlock Weir June 21, 2012
No sleep, but dawn at Stonehenge for the summer solstice with one of my best friends Helen and her husband Neil Carson. The sky was cloudy so rather than the sun coming up it just got lighter. I gave an interview on BBC Radio Bristol – I didn’t know how long I’d get and started on the solstice. In future I should make sure I get my ACTG headline points in first.
Nine miles in the rain, but good support from the Carsons.
Nikki x
Day 2 (12.1 Miles) – Porlock Weir to Lynmouth June 22, 2012
Walk today was supposed to be ‘moderate with strenuous parts’, but felt a lot harder, so I’m a little scared about tomorrow’s ‘strenuous’. On Wednesday I’ve got a ‘severe’, so I’ve no idea what that’s going to be like! At one point I got stuck with one leg each side of a stream, and needed Neil Carson to help me out. I’ve no idea what I’d have done if he’d not been there. Probably up to my knees in the stream.
Marc Ellis and Debbie met us in Lynmouth. We retired to a pub where a local ‘gent’ (with pipe and everything) offered to buy the girls drinks and then asked to join us for a chat. Interesting to say the least.
The end of the day was walking a mile up a 1:4 hill to the campsite!
Realised today that the map on the website and collecting tin doesn’t show all of the route. We’re not even on it yet!
Nikki x
Day 3 (13 Miles) – Lynmouth to Combe Martin June 23, 2012
Reached the highest point on the whole walk, Great Hangman, Exmoor at 318 metres (1043 feet). Ripped one of my two pairs of walking trousers. Glorious sun and torrential rain.
Nikki x
Day 4 (13 Miles) – Combe Martin to Woolacombe June 24, 2012
Wow what views, but a really hard day. Finished off perfectly with chips and curry sauce on beautiful Woolacombe beach.
Nikki x
Day 5 (15 Miles) – Woolacombe to Braunton June 25, 2012
Began with glorious views over Woolacombe, Croyde and Saunton Sands. Finished with a serene secluded trail along the estuary at Braunton and an amazing Thai pub. Made the trudge through mod land and golf course worth it. Now just to amputate my troublesome toe!
Nikki x
Day 6 (23.8 Miles!) – Braunton to Westward Ho! June 26, 2012
Much as I love the evocative esturine landscape, they do add a fair few miles. Unbelievable that after walking twenty four miles today (passing Barnstaple, Bideford and Appledore), all in drizzle, I am less than three miles as the crow flies from where I was yesterday! Hey Ho!
Being overtaken by fifty commandos in training was an unusual start to the day!
Nikki
Day 7 (11.1 miles) – Westward Ho! to Clovelly June 27, 2012
I’ve arrived in the most beautiful village in England, looking like I’ve spent the day mud wrestling! Blinking heck this Devon clay mud is making the walking very tough. Today left Westward Ho! Passed Buck’s Mill and arrived in the beautiful harbour town of Clovelly. If that’s eleven miles of strenuous, I’m not looking forward to the twelve of severe on Friday! – and even less to the twenty severe in Dorset! Still alone but enjoying the solitude! Cumulative mileage is ninety eight miles so far
Nikki x
Day 8 (15.5 miles) – Clovelly to Elmscott June 28, 2012
Clovelly to Elmscott via Hartland point and Hartland Quay. I passed the hundred mile mark in style thanks to the arrival of my trusty old walking boots in the post – thanks Deb C. If only it wasn’t for the kindness of Moses in Bwindi surprising me by washing then in detergent they’d still be waterproof and therefore perfect! Big change in landscape today from sloping bracken lined landscape to rugged cliffs. Only one slippage – but the proximity of Dartmoor ponies leaves me worrying whether it was just mud!
Tomorrow is billed as severe and one of the hardest days on the walk- I’m apprehensive to say the least
Nikki x
PS very excited by my first raven and peregrine of the walk. Walked alone!
Day 9 (12 miles) – Elmscott to Bude June 29, 2012
Yeah- I’m in Cornwall and have conquered my first severe day. I’m so relieved. Elmscott to Bude – apparently cliff top but with nine descents of over one hundred metres to valley bottoms and climbs out the other side – not exactly easy but…
Hilarious moment- I thought I’d master my fear of heights with a ridge top foray. I thought I’d done really well until the onlooking weight watcher boot camp girls sent the sergeant major trainer to check on me – perhaps I didn’t look so cool after all
Nikki x
Day 10 (16.5 miles) – Bude to Boscastle June 30, 2012
One of my most challenging days so far! That’s in spite of sterling support from Dagmar and Ben. Not only did they sort the pitching, and striking of camp, dinner, breakfast and lunch- but Dagmar the non walker even managed ten miles to Crackington Haven in her flowery children’s wellies. The seven miles after they left were quite grueling – maybe the extra weight from wet kit?
Still, I’m good and even dancing at half ten to local band so things are rosy!
Oh by the way very funny conversation with long distance walker going the other way. When i cheerily told him I preferred slopes to steps he miserably replied “if you think this is bad wait till you get to South Devon – it’s a nightmare!”
Nikki x
Day 11 (13.8 miles) – Boscastle to Port Isaac July 1, 2012
What am amazing day.
Twelve cliff to sea level drops and climbs but still incredible. Brief hour rushing around Tintagel was lovely and so much easier minus the thirty seven pound back pack! I’ve loved the solitude of the cliff tops, whilst knowing so many friends and family are supporting me every step of the way. It’s reminded of so much of happy times in the Faroes. Now Bea is here and I look forward to a string of great company over the coming weeks.
Tonight was fun – spent with the drummer from Dexy’s Midnight Runners
Nikki x
Day 12 (11.7 miles) – Port Isaac to Padstow July 2, 2012
Port Isaac to Padstow via Port Quin and Polzeath. A truly sock wringing out day.
Lovely gently cliff top walking and brilliant company from Bea. Ended with a spot of sun and stunning beach walk to rock. Still poor Bea was so saturated that camping tonight was a no go. Now in a B&B with my god-parents, Jackie Corrie and Shelley and looking forward to a gentle day walking with Jackie tomorrow
Nikki x
Day 13 (10.3 miles) – Padstow to Porthcothan July 3, 2012
Fourteen miles from Padstow to Portcothan via Treyarnon Bay. What a special day! My godmother Jackie managed a full ten muddy and damp miles. That’s an incredible effort and great back up support from Corrie and Shelley.
This whole trip is fantastic- spending real quality time with such dear friends in an incredible place- it’s perfect. The coast is more rolling now but beautiful – although it would be nice to have dry feet for just one day!
Pub collections em route are doing really well – now past the four hundred pound mark! The locals think we should be getting TV or radio coverage- so if anyone fancies trying to get that, please do feel free.
Life’s current little mystery- why, in particular in Cornwall are all steps and stiles built for long legged six footers? And certainly not folk built like Jackie and I?
Nikki x
Day 14 (11 miles) – Porthcothan to Newquay July 4, 2012
Goodness what a change of scenery. Seeing Newquay on the horizaon was quite a shock to the system and arriving even more so. The hostel rates quite highly on the skankiness scale and ours presence seems to have doubled the average guest age.
Still Newquay pubs were quite lucrative – over a hundred and thirteen pounds in my collecting tin- I’m not looking forward to carrying all those two p’s – and you think I’m joking. Looking forward to walking with Rach- weather permitting!
Nikki x
Day 15 (12.6 miles) – Newquay to Perranporth July 5, 2012
Newquay to Perranporth crossing the Gannel passing Penhale camp – 12,6 miles with Rachel.
Wow dry feet! The first time this walk I think. Lovely easy walk along the coast away from the big smoke. Culminating with what has to be the longest beach I’ve ever seen in Britain- Perranporth beach. Last two miles bare foot- wonderful.
I’ve now past both the two hundred mile and the three thousand pound mark- starting to get worried- it’s going too quick!
Nikki X
Day 16 (14 miles) – Perranporth to Porthreath July 6, 2012
Day sixteen, Perranporth to Portreath via St Agnes and Porthtowan. Another relatively gentle cliff-top day passing much evidence of Cornwall’s industrial past- tin mines, smelts, mod bases and air fields. Brilliant highlight- spotting a small pod of dolphins- incredible! Final mile through a magic wood, to a YHA camping barn in time to watch Murray’s victory and win at scrabble.
Everything crossed that this time the forecast is right, and the worst of the severe weather stays in South Cornwall.
Nikki x
Day 17 (19.1 miles) – Portreath to St Ives / Carbis bay July 7, 2012
Day seventeen, Portreath to Carbis bay, just outside St Ives via Gwithian and Lelant.
A day of contrasts- woodland, cliffs, sand dunes, estuary and roads. Plenty of grey skies but severe weather avoided. Lovely veggie b and b- what a meal!
Now what to do with my only day off- laundry?
Nikki x
Day Off – St Ives July 8, 2012
Day off- wonderful day in St Ives with two lovely friends Rachel and Charlotte.
Seas were too choppy so boat trip cancelled but I’ve just spotted a massive grey seal in St Ives Harbour so I’m happy.
Two vegetarian restaurants in two days, more coincidences than you can possibly imagine, and one beautiful memory-provoking but rather naughty art purchase. Amusing moment when Charlotte and I were pursued by the council and questioned under suspicion of stealing a collecting tin from a pub. I worked hard for that hundred pounds which I was thankfully able to convince them.
Another severe day lies ahead!
Nikki x
Day 18 (16 miles) – Carbis Bay to Pendeen Watch July 9, 2012
Day eighteen- Carbis Bay to Pendeen Watch, via St Ives and Zennor Head. Sixteen miles, half with Charlotte.
Gosh what a long but beautiful day. Twelve hours walking and at least twelve seals! The coast here is spectacular and the bays turquoise but goodness is that path slow going. The book describes it as severe- fellow walkers I met a couple of days back used the word ‘treacherous’! The rain has not helped. Anyway tonight we stay in a gypsy caravan with a view of the Atlantic- does it get any better?
Nikki x
Day 19 (17 miles) – Pendeen to Porthcurno July 10, 2012
Day nineteen- Pendeen to Porthcurno via Cape Cornwall and Lands End. Seventeen miles. Five with Charlotte!
Another day of phenomenal scenery- idyllic heath land cliffs, unreal coloured coves and passing lands end was a real milestone.
Found some hidden gems – most notably Porth Gwarra a magical spot. Wasn’t a great fan of the cliff edge scrabbling, may even have shed a tear or two- have realised this walk is a strange choice for someone with vertigo. Amazing end to the day- paralysingly cold swim in the Atlantic, great play at the Minack, and first rate shoulder massage from trainee masseur Charlotte.
Nikki x
Day 20 (11.5 miles) – Porthcuro to Penzance July 11, 2012
update missing
Is there something Nikki’s not telling us!?
Day 21 (14 miles) – Penzance to Porthleven July 12, 2012
Penzance to Porthleven via Marazion and Praa Sands.
Oh poor Clare- she’s come all the way from Worthing and this is the worst weather I’ve had so far- raining literally all day and absolutely every item we were both wearing – saturated!
Still some spectacular scenery, craggy heather clad headlands falling into the raging sea. We passed not a soul all day! – I wonder why?
Ended with bingo in the local pub- again- not our lucky day!
Nikki X
Day 22 (14 miles) – Porthleven to The Lizard July 13, 2012
Day twenty two Porthleven to the lizard via gunwalloe and mullion cove.
Three days ago I passed Britain’s most westerly point- Lands End. Tonight we are staying at the most Southern point- The Lizard. It feels so special and the scenery is incredible – really exposed and surrounded by rocky outcrops.
We are staying in a hostel right next door to the lighthouse – complete with it’s fog horn and with the best they from our room imaginable! Clare and I marked the three hundred mile passage today and I’m feeling very moved. Still feel remarkably fresh – would be one hundred percent if it weren’t for my pesky shoulder!
Nikki X
Day 23 (15 miles) – The Lizard to Porthallow July 14, 2012
Day twenty three- The Lizard to Porthallow via Cadgwith and Coverack- fifteen miles.
I’m sat in a rocky moonlit bay listening to two owls calling and the sound of the waves- this is what it’s all about!
More mud than I’ve ever seen! Fell over four times today yet still I’m strangely sad to pass the half way mark! Freaky moment when we were in blazing sunshine yet hearing thunder crash in a storm a couple of miles off shore. Poor Clare- the path is treacherous. I had my worst meal yet- posh pub russels (? sic) up got salad- lettuce and mushrooms- not even any bread. After ten hours walking- come on!
Nikki X
Day 24 (18 miles!) – Porthallow to Falmouth July 15, 2012
Day twenty four- Porthallow to Falmouth via Helford. Eighteen miles plus two around a creek.
What a a glorious day and what a change of feeling! The landscape in far more rolling and riverside and mud though still abundant- not so treacherous. Hence we’ve managed to make decent time.
Tonight Laura arrived so we three dined in chip shop of the year. It was lovely- I’m loving having diverse friends meet and all getting on so well. Also adoring the lack of computer and doing well in my quest not to enter a vehicle – bar a ferry – for over six weeks.
Nikki x
Day 25 (13.6 miles) – Falmouth to Portloe July 16, 2012
Day twenty five – Falmouth to Portloe via Place and Portscatho.
What a start to the day- two terrifyingly rough tiny ferry crossings- part of the official route of course!
A blustery day along lush but low cliffs flanked by farmland. So lovely to see that Laura is so thrilled by her first day on the Cornish coast. Tonight we’re in Portloe a really unspoilt little fishing village with the tiniest harbour. Still feeling remarkably pain free!
Nikki x
Hi All, it’s Marc here (updater of Nikki’s blog). I’ve been busy for a few days, and haven’t had a chance to do the updates. But rest assured, Nikki is doing well, in fact incredibly if you ask me, and normal service should now be resumed.
Thanks for your patience – and Come On Nikki – just a few hundred miles to go! That sounded more motivational in my head
Marc
Day 26 (12.2 miles) – Portloe to Mevagissey July 17, 2012
Day twenty six- Portloe to Mevagissey, twelve miles via Goran Haven.
Another beautiful day, starting with ivy clad cliffs and ending with white sandy beaches and the picturesque harbour of Mevagissey. Mist and sea spray gave way to glowing sunshine- at last. Lunch time paddling and eating pasties on the beach!
Laura sadly had to leave this pm to travel back to Norfolk for a funeral. But what an absolute star- she’s managing to walk both the start and end of the week and traveling all that way back.
Oh also passed the thousand pound mark for collections en route!
Tonight’s conundrum-Do i keep my little toe nail as a souvenir or not?
Nikki x
PS Forgot comical moment. Coming across a huddle of three terrified walkers in a field and having to bravely guide them through a gate-hugging herd of cows – mustering up all my dr doo little talents x
Day 27 (10.5 miles) – Mevagissey to Parr July 18, 2012
Day twenty seven- Mevagissey to Parr via Porthpean and Charlestown.
Only ten and a half miles today which feels like a lazy day, even though it was ‘strenuous’. Had hoped to pop to the Lost Gardens of Helligan but think that was probably overly ambitious – too much to see so kept it for another day.
The landscape is far more rural now- although the dreaded static caravan parks seem to have taken root! Tonight I’m in a less than inspiring place- in Parr in a railway side pub- oh well each trip has to have one. It’s amazing how in tune to your body you become when walking all day every day. I now know exactly when my energy levels fall and peak and first thing in the morning really isn’t a good time for big hills!
Nikki x
Day 28 (13 miles) – Parr to Polperro July 19, 2012
Day twenty eight Parr to Polperro thirteen miles via Polkerris and Fowey.
A glorious day- I think one of the most spectacular so far. However I do wonder to what extent that is affected by blue skies. The sun being out all day and having dry feet for only the third day so far.
The afternoon was pretty tough with lots of up and down. But rewarded by meeting Joan and Matthew at the end in time for quick boat trip. Now Laura is here too. We’re staying in a pub with a curious attitude to customer service.
Looking forward to walking as a four tomorrow- what a change that will make!
Oh special treat this morning I saw my first ever bullfinch and discovered the cove of Polkerris – one of the hidden gems to which i must return.
Nikki X
Day 29 (13.5 miles) – Polperro to Portwrinkle / Crafthole July 20, 2012
Day twenty nine- Polperro to Crafthole via Looe and Portwrinkle thirteen and a half miles.
[It's Nikki's Birthday today! Happy Birthday Nikki!!]
It’s been very special birthday indeed. Wonderful weather, great scenery and lovely company. Even better. loving messages from dear friends flooding in whenever i got a signal- perfect!
And as I’d hoped- I shall be doing exactly the same the day after the big day- walking and enjoying!
Thank you all for making it possible.
Nikki x
Forgot to say- whatever was i thinking of staying in a place called Port Wrinkle on this of all days! X
Day 30 (16 miles) – Portwrinkle to Plymouth July 21, 2012
Day thirty – Portwrinkle to Plymouth, sixteen miles via Kingsand and Cremyl ferry.
A lovely day, although things have become far more habituated and I do miss the remoteness. Some miles out for Laura with an injured knee and Joan’s toe is looking iffy so fingers crossed.
I had been dreading the approach to Plymouth- but in fact it was quite discrete and then really quite beautiful in end. Shame the brilliant veggie Indian restaurant happens to be in the grim part of town.
Nikki x
Day 31 (16 miles) – Plymouth to Noss Mayo July 22, 2012
Day thirty one- Plymouth to Noss Mayo via Wembury.
My goodness- that has to be the best sunset I have ever seen in Britain.
The view from the garden of the b and b over an idyllic cove and island with the calmest sea imaginable. Colours ranging from blue to pink and the orange moon rising and reflecting on the sea- truly heavenly! Thank goodness our Wembury accom cancelled.
Today was through the centre and outskirts of Plymouth, then through woods, along slopes and part beautiful coves. For the afternoon, we were joined by Charles, Belinda and Jenny- really lovely. We made the last ferry in plenty of time, but the timings of tomorrow’s wade and ferry crossings look set to be our biggest challenge yet and the ferryman is being far from helpful. All three of my walking companions are posting injuries or the effects of heat- I’m fine and feeling guilty!
Nikki x
Day 32 (17 miles) – Noss Mayo to Hope Cove July 23, 2012
Day thirty two- Noss Mayo to Hope Cove via Wade crossing and Bigbury-on-Sand. Seventeen miles.
What a challenge we were up against today. A really early start as we needed to walk seven miles to the river Erme which needed to be forded within an hour of low tide. Luckily the seas were so calm and the tides neap and so we braved it am hour earlier- hence thigh rather than ankle deep- invigorating for sure.
Then another seven miles of very challenging ups and downs to reach a ferry crossing the tiny Avon. The ferry though summoned by waving and yelling had strict operating hours of ten till eleven and three till four. We’d tried for days with over fifty calls to get the ferryman to extend his hours to no avail. So a mega effort was required and we amazingly made it with half an hour to spare – real cause for celebration after the two minute ride! Then just three more miles- limping for some of my companions- and we arrived at the ironically named- outer hope!
A quick swim and a well earned rest.
Nikki x
Day 33 (8 miles) – Hope Cove to Salcombe July 24, 2012
Day thirty three- Hope Cove to Salcombe – via Bolt Head eight miles. Goodness I feel like a fraud only walking till one pm today. But we’ve extended the last two days so now we’re in Salcombe nice and early. So to celebrate the achievements of the current walking cohort, an afternoon swimming, exploring town, replacing lost kit, and of course the obligatory pub collections.
Followed by a lovely evening cooking together- well in reality I watched!, toasting miles past and playing scrabble. Joan, Matthew and Jasmijn have been fantastic, many miles and laughs under our belts. Just a pity I seem to have crippled each of them! Still I’m fine but with some big days lying ahead.
Nikki X
Day 34 (25 miles) – Salcombe to Stoke Fleming July 25, 2012
Day thirty four – Salcombe to Stoke Fleming – twenty miles via Devon’s most southern point Prawle Point, and Torcross.
Why are the hairy scrabbley bits always when I am alone? Still wonderful views this morning of calm seas and cereal fields beneath cliffs- bizarre!
At lunch time a wonderful sight- Debbie Alan and little Zac on the beach! What absolute stars.
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